SWEATSHIRT JACKET WITH PATCHES

Read the entire directions before beginning.  Especially the “optional” section at the end.  There are some choices to be made along the way….

Start with a washed (and therefore already shrunk) sweatshirt at least one size larger than you would normally wear.  The quilting will draw it in a bit and make it smaller, so be sure it is large enough to accommodate this.  Choose one that has set-in sleeves and not raglan sleeves.  The color of the sweatshirt will show, so remember that when you make your choice.

Cutting.  Cut off the cuffs, bottom-edge ribbing and the neck ribbing (save the pieces).

Center line.  Draw a narrow line with a permanent marking pen down the center of the front.

Fillet it.  Take apart the side seams from the bottom edge to the end of the sleeve.  If the sweatshirt is big enough you can just cut the seam off.  Don’t cut the center front line at this time!   Lay the sweatshirt out flat.

Patches.  The next step is to place patches all over the sweatshirt.  Obviously, there are a ton of choices here.  You can have a large motif on the back like a patchwork block, a fabric panel, a mola or you can skip this.  The patches can be square, rectangular or irregular.  They can be all one size, or they can vary.  I made one in which I overlapped the patches and another in which I laid them out like tiles, with no overlapping.  You can fussy-cut motifs like flowers, and then tile around them.

Temporary placement.  Whatever patches you choose, you need to stick them to the sweatshirt.  Use any glue that will wash out (like Roxanne’s or Quilter’s Choice or simply a washable glue stick).  In placing the patches, remember that the jacket will be washed – maybe a lot of times – and the raw edges will curl up and fray, thus making them smaller.  So place the patches together closely (or even overlapped).  As you place them, take note of the center front line.  Don’t place patches that go over this line (or you’ll end up with small bits on either side once you cut the front open).  As you place them, remember the ones on the front and the center back will be the most visible.  Along the underarm seam (on both the body and the sleeve), they will be less visible.

Stitch patches down.  Once you have a look that you like, stitch around each patch about ⅛” or ¼” from the edge.  How you do this is up to you.  I put a free-motion foot on my machine and simply free-motioned around each one.  I did not cut the thread between patches, but simply sewed over to the next patch, went around it, then sewed to the next patch, and so on.

Quilting.  When you are satisfied with the look, and all the patches are firmly attached, then quilt the whole thing.  Choose a quilting thread that enhances your design – it can match or be a contrasting color.  If you want the overall look to be darker, choose a darker thread, or if you want it lighter, choose a lighter thread.  You can use metallic or whatever.  It can all be the same, or not.  For a denser, heavier jacket, you can quilt a ¼” grid over the whole thing.  Or lines ¼” apart.  Or you can meander or stipple.  Or play with it.  Do a swirl in one patch, a flower in another and so on.  The pieces are already sewn down, so this step is more decorative.  The heaviness of the quilting affects the weight and “stiffness” of the jacket – less quilting is lighter and more flexible.  You will use a lot of thread in any case!

Reassembly.  Once it is thoroughly quilted, sew the side seams back together.  Because sweatshirt fabric has stretch, use a narrow zigzag.  Cut on the center line.  Try it on.  Now is the time to make any adjustments.

Cuffs.  If the ends of the sleeves are floppy (and they probably will be – remember, you started with a sweatshirt!), make two pleats in the end of the sleeve.  Try a 1” pleat on each side of the seam.  Sew it up the sleeve about 2-3”.  Try it on again.  Adjust if necessary.  (Or, if you want it to look like a sweatshirt, you can sew the original ribbed cuffs back on.)

Binding.  Cut bias strips 2–2 ½” wide, and make enough binding to bind the whole thing.  You can bind the whole body of the jacket in one step – start somewhere along the bottom near the underarm seam, sew toward the front, up the center line, around the neck (this is why you use bias binding), down the other side of the front, and around the bottom back to the place you started.  If you want to machine sew the whole thing, sew the binding to the wrong side and turn it to the right side and stitch it down by machine, either using a straight stitch or a decorative one.  If you want a more finished look, sew it to the right side first, then turn it to the inside and hand stitch it down.  Then bind the cuffs.

OPTIONAL STUFF:

Pocket:  You can add a pocket into the side seam before reassembling the jacket it Step 8, or you can add a pocket after the jacket is completed by making a welt pocket.  Note:  it is a good idea to use some sort of “slippery” fabric for the pocket, so it will slide nicely over whatever you’re wearing.

Embellishment:  You can add buttons, sequins, crystals or whatever you want to the jacket once it is quilted.

Closure:  You can add buttons or frogs or simple loops to make closures for the jacket.  On one of mine, I simply used the buttonhole capability of my sewing machine to make button holes in the right front and sewed buttons on the left front.  If you want to make loops, you can make them out of the binding fabric and integrate them as you do the binding.

Sheryl King

5/25/09

SWEATSHIRT JACKET WORKSHOP SUPPLY LIST

Please bring to workshop:

Sweatshirt: washed (and therefore already shrunk), at least one size larger than you would normally wear, with set-in sleeves rather than raglan sleeves.

Scissors

Seam ripper

Patches

Motif for back if desired

Glue that will wash out (Roxanne’s, Quilter’s Choice, washable glue stick)

Eventually you will need (but don’t bring to workshop):

Sewing machine

Thread – both piecing and quilting

Fabric for binding

Material for pockets, if desired

Buttons, if desired

Embellishments, if desired